It’s 10.30pm, three hours before my flight leaves from Ben Gurion Airport and I’m
waiting in the longest EL AL cue ever…I am stopped by the rather aggressive Israeli red head security guard who doesn’t look a day over 20 but whose tone is of a 50 year old body builder
‘Yes. Hello’ she forces a smile at me
‘Hi’ I am nervous already. Why is that? I’m not about to smuggle drugs out the country or hide a bomb in my suitcase, but I start to feel like I am guilty just by her attitude to me…
‘So can I see your ticket?’
Problem number one.
‘Well, you see, it’s an e-ticket and I can’t find the bit of paper anywhere.’
She gives me another glare behind her glasses. Not impressed. But hey, who invented e-tickets anyway…it’s a flimsy bit of paper, whatever happened to the good old chunky ticket folder thing …
I try to smile.
‘I’m sure I had it in here. I’m really sorry, but I am going to Beijing. I have my passport.’ She snatches it off me and flips through a few pages. She sees that I have an Israeli visa that was outdated from when my service ended back in June.
‘Do you have a visa?’
‘No. I don’t need one. I was just here for 6 days, and you can do that on a New Zealand passport. It’s fine.’
She doesn’t like me one bit. I can tell. I start to get all jittery.
‘What was the purpose of your visit?’
‘I was at a conference.’
What kind of conference?
Not too sure how much I should say…
‘A Baha’i conference’
‘Bahai? Are you bahai?’
‘Yes’
‘Can I see your id?’
Problem no 2
‘You see, my wallet got stolen last week when I was back in Shanghai, it had my id in I so I don’t have anything.’
It’s true I did loose it riding on my bike last week…but right now it sounds like the most pathetic lie.
She sees the paper bag I am holding in my other hand
‘What is that?’
This?’
Oh God, I think to myself. Why did I not pack this in my suitcase, I didn’t want it to bend…and I thought the paper bag was enough of a disguise…
‘It’s in Arabic?’ She says rather shocked
‘Ah yes. It’s a protection symbol. It’s the Greatest Name. It was given to me by a friend.’
Mistake no 3.
Her ears prick up.
‘A friend gave it to you? Who was your friend?’
By now I am so nervous, common sense is out the window.
‘Vafa. My good friend Vafa.’
Vafa? She repeats it like its on America’s most wanted.
Oh great one Chantelle. Just tell the Israeli officials you were given an Arabic gift by a girl with an Iranian name…just what they wanted to hear…
I try to recover from my big mouth
‘It’s a gift. I know where she got it. It’s safe, it’s a book center with all Baha’i books. Really it’s nothing bad. It’s a protection symbol. Ironic isn’t it.’
She is not impressed by my attempt to make a joke out of this situation
‘Ok. So, Chantelle (she says as she reads my passport) when were you born?
‘Ah’ I am so nervous I nearly forget
‘Ah ah oh 16th of febuary 1984.’ Phew
‘And when was your passport issued.’ What? I think to myself. How should I know that? What is this? Jeopardy the quiz show?
‘Umm I don’t know. Ten years ago?’ stabbing in the dark…
‘Ok. Miss Brader. Please wait here.’
My tail hangs between my legs.
She brings out another guy who questions me even more
‘So what was your conference about?
I wanted to say ‘that’s confidential’ but I was stuck in the mud
‘Media and development.’
‘Can I see any documents you have from this conference?’
Ahhh…ok….a bit awkward I thought…I fumble around my bag and finally find the invitation letter.
He reads it.
‘Ok Miss Brader. Please come with me.’
What? More? I thought that would be enough.
Bag searching time.
As they open up my suitcase and take out all my clothes and belongings it feels as though they are tearing open my insides…I feel violated in some weird way. But I try not to show it...
They find an unopened battery charger, bought in Israel.
Suspicious object they think.
Where did you get this from?
The Hadar in Haifa.
Hadar? They look at each other suspiciously, was that another arab word? Ah im digging myself into a hole.
Why would I buy a battery charger and not use it made for Israeli plugs?
‘I have the adapter somewhere.’ My mind went back to the hilarious story of buying this thing. On the way to Bahji and I realise my digital camera batteries are dead, so as Sarah and Tanya grab a coffee I run into this dinky electronics store in the Hadar to buy 2 normal AA batteries. the shopkeeper wont let me
‘No no no,’ in his think Jewish accent, ‘no I wont give it to you, a waste. One picture and then kaput. Here here, look I give you this, he hands me the charger. Much better. Special price.’
‘But I need to take pictures now, Im going back to China tomorrow.’
‘China? My daughter is in China.Ok ok. Since I know you are there and she is there…I throw in these for free. ‘
He puts four aa batteries and an adapter on the counter, time is running out and I just want to get on the sherut and go to Bahji and get out of this smelly shop…so I buy the charger….reluctantly parting with my last shekels…
Back into this moment
They take the battery charger away, place it into a bomb threat bag and scan it in a different area. I want to laugh…what a saga…in so many ways…more economical in the long run….hmmmm more of a pain in the butt in the long run…
But I force a smile, and then they take me into a private cubicle.
Wow. My first actual full on body search…and I thought the bag was evasive
Its with clothes all on thankfully. But her plastic glove hands go on the outside of just about every part of my body, inner and outer thighs, waist, tops of my pants, even a little bit under the seam, under my arm pits…I start to giggle….its just so awkward.
‘Just think of it as a really bad massage,’ says the female security guard searching me with her thick Russian accent.
After my shoes are scanned and my jacket. They tell me its ok to go now.
What an experience.
And now, back in Shanghai, at my school, the day after I got back.
A teacher saw it on my desk,
‘What is this?’
‘It’s a Baha’i symbol. It means ‘O Thou Glory of the All-Glorious’
‘It’s beautiful.’
Yes it is I think to myself, and it certainly took an adventure to get it here.
‘Can I have it?’
I am rather stunned.
‘Of course.’
‘I want to put it on the front of my door. I want everyone who walks past to see it.’
Wow. Gob-smacked.
So now, on the front of my non-baha’i co-workers door in Pudong is the Greatest Name.
There is a silver lining in everything…