well. where to begin. so much has
happend since i landed on
monday straight into the urban jungle that is Shanghai. i
didnt expect it to be this crazy. in fact i
dont know what i was expecting. i basically was taking a mad plunge into the dark by coming here, but its fight or flight time, really. the first thing that struck me was my utter lack of communication skills. i am deaf, blind, and mute here, and people don't really speak that much
english, even if it was a big city. in my head i had it that it would be a lot easier to communicate, but i had NO idea. even asking for gum at the airport was impossible, it just struck me how absolutely
un prepared i am for this in terms of language...lesson number one.
and then the taxi ride.
i thought
israel was bad in terms of driving but here, its something else. lanes, red lights,
doesnt mean anything, people EVERYWHERE on bikes, peddling a massive mound of rubbish, or building goods, or children clinging onto their mothers as they scooter pass...amazing sites. the
skyscapers being built everywhere you look. construction sites. dirt. cranes. people. bikes. horns beeping. but in this chaos there is this happiness. a contentment. deep in the eyes of the people. its a peaceful chaos. going from cosy wellington where your sense of personal space is so vast, to a sea of black heads in the peoples square metro of shanghai, wow, i am totally out of my comfort zone. but
thats great. i
didnt come here for the lifestyle,
thats for sure, i came here because i believe
Baha'u'llah guided me here. and i have to keep reminding myself of that each day. under my breath, in the subway, '
allah'u'abha', being pushed like sardines in a can, being stared at on the streets by old men in their pj's, looking for apartments and finding that either i share the kitchen and bathroom with the entire building, or the kitchen and bathtub are in the same room, or there is no front door on the third level...i am looking at lane houses.
these are the typical
shanghainese style 1930's brick buildings, typically three stories high, a family per storey. washing out your window....its incredible the difference in culture. in the west the kitchen is so much the center of the house. here, its outside the house, in the hallway, and typically no fridge, just a stove top and a wok, and no oven either, or in one place i saw they put a shower cubicle around it in the living room so the smell wouldn't go into the rest of the house, so interesting.
i
guess here the locals will buy their food on the day and cook it then and there, no place for midnight snacks out of the fridge like we have back home...
hehe. of course this is taking it to an extreme and there are a lot of apartments and brand new places that are just like the apartments back home, but since arriving here i have been fascinated by the local culture, how they live, the history, the untold suffering they have been through, and really the lane house culture of shanghai
epitomises that. its pretty filthy though. some of the flats i have seen i cannot believe the landlord is standing in front of me with a smile on his face, with a toilet and bath thats green with grime...'ahh auckland...nz...beautiful..paradise' one landlord said to me, i wanted to burst into tears in that moment as i thought about it...yes, yes it really is, compared to this.... but deep breathe in (well not too deep cos it stinks!!)
i love the lanehouses though, despite the dirt...they still retain that community feel that gets lost in the skyscraper urban mess
thats taking over the rest of shanghai...but i dont know if i want to share my kitchen or my bathroom with a whole neighbourhood...is that too 'western' of me? its hard to know your limits sometimes...what is just cultural habit, what you can adapt to, what you can't...for now its my own bathroom, kitchen, and a front door.....how very western of me....oh well....little steps.....
basically the only taste of the real china you get here in shanghai is strolling through the old lanes. otherwise its modern sky-scraper city...and perhaps i may choose to live in one of those even though i despise them...they look like giant size reminders of the west and its commercialism now reaching for the sky because the earth is not enough....
anyway enough venting!!
its been a real lesson even at day 5, in learning to let go. i mean, we already know we have no control of things. we read that in the writings each day. but there is this sense of orderliness and structure that i guess you just expect and that gives rise to a sense of control...even if its not real...but here you REALLY sense that chaos that comes out of control or lack of or whatever it is.....
although in saying that there is this huge control of people, even in the subway, the guard blows his whistle to move the hundreds of people down to the next landing to get onboard the metro and people do as they are told straight away, no sniggers, no side remarks, you wouldnt get that in london people would get lippy...but anyway....back to my other thought.. each day that i have been here i learn to let go just a little bit more. because here, so far i have noticed and been told, nothing works out the way you want it. thats pretty common through-out life i guess. but here, its on a different level...a friend described china as an 'enigma', its so complex. it is a mystery. it really is. layers upon layers of complexity, of cultural habits that i have absolutely no clue about. but its all learning. and i cannot judge them according to my 'western' standards because non is better than the other. its a different value system. and i am here to learn as much as i can from their culture and not try to force mine at all.
even little things, i had no idea about, like receiving a business card with two hands, otherwise its offensive, its the details within the details....
i do feel like a fish out of water. but its good. when i read my prayers and readings they take on a whole new layer of meaning 'clinging to the cord..' yep. i really am clinging. there is nothing else to hold on to. 'homeless wanderer' yep. certainly am that.
homelessness.
Abdul-
Baha talks about how homelessness as a blessing..
"O ye homeless wanderers in the Path of God! Prosperity, contentment, and freedom, however much desired and conducive to the gladness of the human heart, can in no wise compare with the trials of homelessness and adversity in the pathway of God; for such exile and banishment are blessed by the divine favour, and are surely followed by the mercy of Providence. The joy of tranquility in one's home, and the sweetness of freedom from all cares shall pass away, whilst the blessing of homelessness shall endure forever, and its far-reaching results shall be made manifest.' -
Abdul-
Baha,
SWA, p. 280.
not to say that what i am going through is utter exile and banishment. but in someways it does feel like it. that loneliness that accompanies not having anything familiar near you, not knowing what people are saying, or what the sign says, or just having a close friend near by to chat to, that kinda loneliness sweeps in from time to time.
but deep down i am happy. because i feel tested. i feel like by being here in Shanghai my capacity is being tested. after the utter tranquility and peace of guiding at the Holy Shrines for 18months to the noisy jungle of one of the world's biggest cities bursting onto the global scene....its quite the change. but this is what i prayed for...so i have to trust. let go of expectations...and have faith. that is the ultimate test
it is a great time to be in China. watching the opening ceremony last night with some locals, cheering so loud, so proud of this moment, China, finally, arms wide open to the World, leading the way, opening its gates...
one world, one dream....
hehe, how much more Baha'i could you get???